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Pre-Purchase Inspection

 

Don't buy a lemon !   Save money and feel confident in your used-car purchase with The Wicked Good Mechanics pre-purchase inspection !   We will have our ASE certified mobile mechanic inspect any vehicle on-site, before you buy.  

 

Used Car-Buying Advice 

Remember that most people don't sell or trade their old car - unless they are having problems with it, spending too much on repairs, or just plain hate the car.   An older car that still runs and looks good is usually a keeper.   A used car or truck that is nothing but trouble becomes a trade-in or a for-sale-by-owner.

 

We are  not saying all used cars are trouble.   Many are in fact, good buys and are traded-in because the lease expired or, the former owner wanted a new vehicle or a different type of vehicle. 

The Used-Car Quick-Inspection Checklist for Car Buyers

RULE #1: NEVER buy a vehicle without test driving it.

RULE #2: If the vehicle does NOT start, idle or run well, don’t believe the excuse that “it only needs a tune-up”. If that’s all it needed, it would have been fixed already.

 

Use the following checklist as a guide to inspect a used vehicle. Check off each item one-by-one. If an item does not pass, use it as a negotiating point to get a lower price.

 

 

SAFETY:

[__] Brakes

Step on the pedal; it should be firm & it should hold pressure. A soft pedal, low pedal or a pedal that slowly sinks to floor indicates a need for brake repairs. Test drive to see how the brakes feel, or sound. Pulling, grabbing or a noise will indicate a need for brake repairs.

[__] Tires

Check all four tires (and spare) for wear. Uneven wear indicates misalignment and possible worn steering/suspension parts.

[__] Steering

Test drive. If there is play in the steering wheel, or if steering feels loose or pulls to one side, this indicates a worn or damaged steering/suspension parts.

[__] Headlights

Turn the headlights on and check the low and high beams to make sure all lights work.

[__] Taillights

With lights on, check that all tail lights and marker lights work (including the license plate light).

[__] Brake lights

Have helper step on the brake pedal to see if all brake lights work.

[__] Turn Signals

With the key on or the engine running, check the right/left turn signals and 4-way flashers.

[__] Wipers

Turn the wipers on. Check the intermittent, low and high speeds. Also check the washers.

[__] Horn

Push the steering wheel to see if the horn blows.

[__] Defrosters

Turn the heater/climate control to defrost. Check for air blowing out of the defroster ducts. If the vehicle has a rear defroster, turn it on, wait for several minutes and feel the glass to see if it is warm.

[__] Airbag Warning light

If this light is on, there is a fault in the air bag system. The vehicle may have been in a recent accident and may not have been properly repaired.

 

 

ENGINE,POWERTRAIN & UNDERHOOD:

[__] Check Engine light

Turn the ignition on. All warning lights should illuminate for a couple of seconds then go out.   If the Check Engine/Service Engine Soon light or icon remains on, the engine has an emissions problem that will require further diagnosis & repair.

[__] Other Warning lights

All dash warning lights should come on when key is first turned on, and then go out. Test drive the vehicle until the engine is warm to see if any lights come on. If the ABS or Brake light comes on, it could indicate a need for brake repairs (check to make sure parking brake is not on).

[__] Dipstick

Open the hood and remove the dipstick.   Check the oil level and appearance. If the oil level is low, it could indicate neglect or an engine that is leaking or burning oil.  If the oil is black and very dirty, the current owner has not changed the oil often enough (this could shorten oil life).

[__] Test Drive/Engine

Does the engine start normally?  Does it idle smoothly?   Does the vehicle accelerate without hesitating or stalling?   Does the engine run smoothly and have normal power?   Are there any unusual noises, knocking or ticking sounds? Hard starting, hesitation, stalling or misfiring can indicate a need for expensive diagnosis and repairs. Noise usually indicates worn parts and a need for expensive repairs.

[__] Test Drive/Transmission

An automatic transmission should engage smoothly when placed in gear, and shift smoothly while driving. Any slippage between gears indicates expensive trouble. On vehicles with manual transmissions (stick shift), the clutch pedal should release/engage smoothly with normal pedal travel. Excessive pedal travel, slipping or chattering indicate clutch trouble. Gears should shift smoothly with no grinding.

[__] Visual Under-the-Hood Inspection

Inspect the engine for oil or coolant leaks, signs of recent repair, unusual or heavy accumulations of grease or dirt. Also, look for any service stickers that may indicate maintenance/repair history.

[__] Fluid Levels

Look at the coolant reservoir, windshield-washer reservoir, brakes reservoir, and power-steering pump reservoir to see if the fluid levels are full. Low levels could indicate neglect or a problem.

[__] Belts & Hoses

Inspect the belts and hoses for cracks or leaks.

[__] Battery

Inspect the terminals and cables for corrosion, damage or recent repairs.  Check to see if the battery has a date code on it.   If it is more than 5 years old, the battery will soon have to be replaced.

 

 

BODY:

[__] Body/Paint Damage

Walk all the way around the vehicle to look for obvious damage such as dents/dings, alignment of doors, hood and truck to body. Look down on the sides for ripples or bows. Check the wheel-well openings/fenders/rocker panels for body filler.  Look for paint overspray on trim as evidence of recent body repairs.  Body damage and repainting can be very expensive to repair.

[__] Plastic Bumpers

Look up under the front and rear bumpers. Look for any sign of damaged /cracked plastic which indicates recent accident damage. Check for peeling /cracking paint from recent repairs.

[__] Windshield and Glass

Check windshield for cracks, pits or scratches (this can be expensive to replace).

[__] Doors

Open and close all doors/liftgate/hatchback to see that both exterior and interior release handles work properly. Also, inspect weather-stripping around doors for damage that could allow water leaks or annoying wind noise.

[__] Trunk

Does trunk release, open/shut normally? Does trunk smell damp or musty (this could indicate water leakage or recent flood damage to vehicle). Where is the spare tire and jack?

 

 

CONVENIENCE:

[__] Air Conditioner/Heater/Climate Control System

Check the operation of A/C and heater.   If the A/C does not blow cold air, the system is probably leaking refrigerant.

[__] Power Windows, Door Locks and Seats

Test the operation of all power windows, door locks and seats. If it has keyless entry, does the key fob work properly? Does the owner have the keyless entry code?

[__] Radio, CD player

Turn on and check the basic functions (volume, speaker fade, and channel-select). If the radio has a CD player, test it to see if it works.

[__] Navigation system, DVD player, other features

Test these devices to see if they work properly.

[__] Interior Visual

Inspect seats, door panels, carpeting and gas/brake/clutch pedals for any unusual or heavy wear.

[__] Cigarette lighter/power receptacle(s)

Test to see if they work.

[__] Interior lights

Do the lights come on when any door is opened?

 

 

PAPERWORK:

[__] License plates/Registration

Does the vehicle have the current plates/registration? If not, why not? Vehicle could have been rebuilt, flood damaged or from out of state (always be suspicious).

[__] Title

Does the seller have the title? ASK TO SEE IT . Compare the VIN on the title to the VIN on the vehicle (usually located at the base of the windshield on driver’s side). If the VIN numbers on the title/vehicle do not match, or there is no title, DO NOT BUY THIS VEHICLE!

[__] Receipts

If the seller has maintenance/repair receipts and is claiming that work has been recently done, parts have been replaced, and the car has been well-maintained, ask the seller for a written proof.

[__] Sale Terms

Most used vehicles are sold “AS IS” which means if anything goes wrong with it after you buy it, so sad too bad. If the seller promises to take care of any problems or is offering you a warranty or guarantee of any kind - GET IT IN WRITING and HAVE THE SELLER SIGN IT.

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The Wicked Good Mechanics

265 Franklin Street, Suite 1702 Boston, MA 02110

service@drivewaydocs.com

1-800-391-8982

© 2014 by the Wicked Good Mechanics

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